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A Naked Man And A Naked Lady!
Dec. 20th, 2012 12:35 amThe final account of our trip to Serbia actually concerns what we did on my birthday, at least the morning of it as this is the only point unaccounted. So only one month late then...
Due to the comfortable nature of our beds - coupled with the fact I was now officially old - we lay there for a good amount of time, surfacing about noon to endure the poor shower before putting on some clothes and going exploring.
Our primary destination was the Belgrade Fortress, which is at one end of the city, past the bustling centre and through the quaint Kalemegdan Park. Meaning 'field of battle' in Turkish, it was here that the battle between the Austrians and the Turks took place in defence of the fortress.
Walking through the park, we spotted an outdoor art exhibit here on behalf of the US Tourist board, 50 huge photographs depicting an iconic image from each state. There was also a statue of a man wrestling with a snake, called 'The Struggle' and erected in 1906 apparently. On our way up to the Fortress, there were many stalls selling the usual tourist bric-a-brac and items best avoided, but we did manage to snarfle some popcorn which was nice to munch as we were walking around. In the park, we saw a nice fountain consisting of spitting ducks, and the Hunyadi Stone - dedicated to the people who had fought for the city during the Siege of Belgrade in 1456, which was perpetuated by the Turks. Janos Hunyadi prevented Sultan Mehmed II's attempts to conquer the fortress. We also saw the bosomly features of the Monument of Gratitude to France, sculpted by Ivan Mestrovic and unveiled in 1930, which I believe was a thank you to the French for supporting the Serbs during World War I, highlighting the French lives who were lost in Yugoslavia during the conflict. Quite what a naked bathing woman has to do with that, I am not so sure.
There has been a castle of some description on this site since the time of the Celts. It was improved by the Romans, although little of the Roman Fortress remains - we saw one excavated wall during our time walking around the modestly sized complex. The Roman Well, which has sadly been closed off now but which was rebuilt by the Austrians in 1731, is another example of the Roman history remaining, if not completely in its original form. The Fortress is strategically placed on a bluff above the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, consequently there are some stunning views from the ramparts. I spent a lot of time annoying Wolfie by repeating the phrase "Do you want to see my ramparts?" but I think he took it in good humour.
The Messenger of Victory Monument, a large structure overlooking New Belgrade, is an impressive testament to the power of the human spirit. It was erected (hurr hurr) in 1928 to mark the tenth anniversary of the breach of the Salonica front. It had initially been intended to be in the city itself but prudish locals complained about the statue's homoerotic and masculine nature, with its full-frontal nudity causing a scandal in such times. Of course, it's actually a warrior figure and looks quite at home looking towards Austria and Hungary, surveying the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers like the watchmen at the fortress would have done for centuries before him. In fact, it seems quite apt and sculptor Ivan Mestrovic has really captured the essence and spirit of a defiant nation personified in warrior form. Added to this is a huge dollop of symbolism. In his left hand sits a falcon, the symbol of Serbian freedom while in his right there is a sword, symbolising the defending of peace.
As I have mentioned before, Belgrade is one of the most conquered cities in the world and there has been a long history of violence associated with it. Shortly off from the statue there is an area with sweeping stone steps and a neat little garden akin to what you would find in a British stately home. Here, four modern Serbian heroes are buried, heroes from the Second World War and the Tito era which prevailed after it.
After the Turks conquered the city, the fortress went into neglect and it wasn't until the arrival of the Austrians in the 18th century that it was restored. There are some models detailing the scale of the complex, the centre of which is now largely flat land with little to see. The walls circulating this area though are very impressive while some of the outer buildings still remain, and it is these which are the main draws, aside from the colossal gates which stand imperialistically at the entrances, denying entry to any maraudering forces. Indeed, there are as many as three obstacles to overcome if you ever tried to attack the castle, such was Belgrade's strategic importance both geographically and politically.
The Despot's Gate and the Zindan Gate are the two most impressive entrances to the complex. The latter is of 15th century construction in dusty sandstone, consisting of two round towers bestriding a small walkway over a moat. Cannon were situated in the tower to deflect invaders while dungeons were built into the buildings to deal with any enemy soldiers who were captured.
The former was named after the despot himself, Stevan Lazarevic. Above this stands the oblong-shaped Dizdar Tower, which towers over the small town set flush against this north-eastern entrance to the fortress. It is here where a number of darling churches and chapels are situated, as well as a memorial to the Serbs who lost their lives defending the motherland in battle. The highlight of the religious buildings is the quaint Rose Church of Our Lady (Ružica Church). In summer, it would be quite a sight as the frontage is covered with vines, plants which are far less verdent in the depths of November. The Church is guarded by two statues, one of a knight and the second a soldier. Indeed, there is a strong military theme to this church as it was once an arsenal before being converted into a military chapel in the mid-nineteenth century. Continuing this theme, inside, the chandeliers are made out of spent munitions from World War I, including guns and bullets, all intricately arranged. Set in front of the beautiful iconostasis, it is one of the most breathtakingly original sights I think I have ever witnessed. Millie, who sings in a choir here, is very lucky.
If this church is quaint, then the smaller Church of St Petka (Sv Paraskeva) is a teeny tiny treasure. Built on a spring of the same name, it is frequented by barren women who believe the waters will aid their fertility, particularly on 27 October, which is the patron saint day.
Of course, being a Fortress, the building's primary role was of a military function and indeed the Serbian army is still based here. We saw many soldiers marching up and down the embankments created to shield the fortress's moat while there was a huge gaggle of them hanging around the imposing brick building which makes up the Military Museum. We had already seen similar in Belarus so we decided to pass but we did take a look at the huge array of tanks which were parked outside the building, including a teeny tiny Polish tank that I nicknamed the Puppy Panzer. It was really sweet and cute, that would be the sort of machine I would go to war in, if I ever go to war.
I didn't mention that we had rented an audio guide, which was definitely worth it as it gave me the knowledge I have just imparted to you above. We got it from the gift shop so on our way out, we handed the snazzy bit of technology back to the nice man before continuing back into the city and having a deserved beer in a cafe we had spotted. And now you are all caught up :P
Due to the comfortable nature of our beds - coupled with the fact I was now officially old - we lay there for a good amount of time, surfacing about noon to endure the poor shower before putting on some clothes and going exploring.
Our primary destination was the Belgrade Fortress, which is at one end of the city, past the bustling centre and through the quaint Kalemegdan Park. Meaning 'field of battle' in Turkish, it was here that the battle between the Austrians and the Turks took place in defence of the fortress.
Walking through the park, we spotted an outdoor art exhibit here on behalf of the US Tourist board, 50 huge photographs depicting an iconic image from each state. There was also a statue of a man wrestling with a snake, called 'The Struggle' and erected in 1906 apparently. On our way up to the Fortress, there were many stalls selling the usual tourist bric-a-brac and items best avoided, but we did manage to snarfle some popcorn which was nice to munch as we were walking around. In the park, we saw a nice fountain consisting of spitting ducks, and the Hunyadi Stone - dedicated to the people who had fought for the city during the Siege of Belgrade in 1456, which was perpetuated by the Turks. Janos Hunyadi prevented Sultan Mehmed II's attempts to conquer the fortress. We also saw the bosomly features of the Monument of Gratitude to France, sculpted by Ivan Mestrovic and unveiled in 1930, which I believe was a thank you to the French for supporting the Serbs during World War I, highlighting the French lives who were lost in Yugoslavia during the conflict. Quite what a naked bathing woman has to do with that, I am not so sure.
There has been a castle of some description on this site since the time of the Celts. It was improved by the Romans, although little of the Roman Fortress remains - we saw one excavated wall during our time walking around the modestly sized complex. The Roman Well, which has sadly been closed off now but which was rebuilt by the Austrians in 1731, is another example of the Roman history remaining, if not completely in its original form. The Fortress is strategically placed on a bluff above the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, consequently there are some stunning views from the ramparts. I spent a lot of time annoying Wolfie by repeating the phrase "Do you want to see my ramparts?" but I think he took it in good humour.
The Messenger of Victory Monument, a large structure overlooking New Belgrade, is an impressive testament to the power of the human spirit. It was erected (hurr hurr) in 1928 to mark the tenth anniversary of the breach of the Salonica front. It had initially been intended to be in the city itself but prudish locals complained about the statue's homoerotic and masculine nature, with its full-frontal nudity causing a scandal in such times. Of course, it's actually a warrior figure and looks quite at home looking towards Austria and Hungary, surveying the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers like the watchmen at the fortress would have done for centuries before him. In fact, it seems quite apt and sculptor Ivan Mestrovic has really captured the essence and spirit of a defiant nation personified in warrior form. Added to this is a huge dollop of symbolism. In his left hand sits a falcon, the symbol of Serbian freedom while in his right there is a sword, symbolising the defending of peace.
As I have mentioned before, Belgrade is one of the most conquered cities in the world and there has been a long history of violence associated with it. Shortly off from the statue there is an area with sweeping stone steps and a neat little garden akin to what you would find in a British stately home. Here, four modern Serbian heroes are buried, heroes from the Second World War and the Tito era which prevailed after it.
After the Turks conquered the city, the fortress went into neglect and it wasn't until the arrival of the Austrians in the 18th century that it was restored. There are some models detailing the scale of the complex, the centre of which is now largely flat land with little to see. The walls circulating this area though are very impressive while some of the outer buildings still remain, and it is these which are the main draws, aside from the colossal gates which stand imperialistically at the entrances, denying entry to any maraudering forces. Indeed, there are as many as three obstacles to overcome if you ever tried to attack the castle, such was Belgrade's strategic importance both geographically and politically.
The Despot's Gate and the Zindan Gate are the two most impressive entrances to the complex. The latter is of 15th century construction in dusty sandstone, consisting of two round towers bestriding a small walkway over a moat. Cannon were situated in the tower to deflect invaders while dungeons were built into the buildings to deal with any enemy soldiers who were captured.
The former was named after the despot himself, Stevan Lazarevic. Above this stands the oblong-shaped Dizdar Tower, which towers over the small town set flush against this north-eastern entrance to the fortress. It is here where a number of darling churches and chapels are situated, as well as a memorial to the Serbs who lost their lives defending the motherland in battle. The highlight of the religious buildings is the quaint Rose Church of Our Lady (Ružica Church). In summer, it would be quite a sight as the frontage is covered with vines, plants which are far less verdent in the depths of November. The Church is guarded by two statues, one of a knight and the second a soldier. Indeed, there is a strong military theme to this church as it was once an arsenal before being converted into a military chapel in the mid-nineteenth century. Continuing this theme, inside, the chandeliers are made out of spent munitions from World War I, including guns and bullets, all intricately arranged. Set in front of the beautiful iconostasis, it is one of the most breathtakingly original sights I think I have ever witnessed. Millie, who sings in a choir here, is very lucky.
If this church is quaint, then the smaller Church of St Petka (Sv Paraskeva) is a teeny tiny treasure. Built on a spring of the same name, it is frequented by barren women who believe the waters will aid their fertility, particularly on 27 October, which is the patron saint day.
Of course, being a Fortress, the building's primary role was of a military function and indeed the Serbian army is still based here. We saw many soldiers marching up and down the embankments created to shield the fortress's moat while there was a huge gaggle of them hanging around the imposing brick building which makes up the Military Museum. We had already seen similar in Belarus so we decided to pass but we did take a look at the huge array of tanks which were parked outside the building, including a teeny tiny Polish tank that I nicknamed the Puppy Panzer. It was really sweet and cute, that would be the sort of machine I would go to war in, if I ever go to war.
I didn't mention that we had rented an audio guide, which was definitely worth it as it gave me the knowledge I have just imparted to you above. We got it from the gift shop so on our way out, we handed the snazzy bit of technology back to the nice man before continuing back into the city and having a deserved beer in a cafe we had spotted. And now you are all caught up :P
