lupestripe | Of Shimmering Quiescence

Sinaia is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Granted, there is not an awful lot to do here during a cold October day but the charm of this place is so intensely alluring. The problem with this time of year though is that it's between seasons. The summer season has gone and it's not early enough for the winter season to begin. Coupled with the fact that today is Monday and most of the attractions were closed. This doesn't mean I haven't seen anything though.

The Tourist Information was my first port of call, where an abrupt official told me that he 'had nothing for me' and that they were 'closing up soon' - at 12.30pm. He was the rudest man I have met on my travels so far, ironically in a job designed to help tourists like me. Undeterred, I walked along the main street of Sinaia and picked up the Romanian equivalent of a snausage roll. Pastry products like pasties and pies are as big here as they are back home and the small snacks you can get by the roadside are well-worth sampling. I tried some snausage spring rolls in Bucharest on Saturday and they made a delightful little snack too.

With belly full, I walked to Dimitrie Ghica Park, which contained one of the most pathetic fountains I have ever seen. Next to it, though, was the grandest casino I have ever seen. Founded in 1913, it was clearly a part of the spa resort adjacent to it. The architecture was stunning, with sandstone arches and a beautiful front portal. The spa building was a whitewashed Georgian structure which had all the gradeur of the buildings built during the Raj in India. I have seen similar resorts in Scotland and this was a little piece of Scotland in Eastern Europe.

However, this was nothing compared to what I was about to see. Heading uphill, I stumbled upon a WWI cemetary, a poignant reminder of the lives lost in this part of the world as a result of the Great War. The graveyard was rather small but the entrance, flanked by two cannons and with a Romanian flag proudly flying, was a suitable tribute. It was here that I started speaking to two Spanish tourists who were lost. They were trying to find the Sinaia Monestary and I pointed them in the right direction. They even took a photograph of my map and chatted to me for a while about their trip to Romania. This is one of the things I love about travelling - all the people you get to meet.

The greatest thing about the Monestary, aside from the fact my entrance fee was waived because the ticket guy liked the look of me, was that it is still functional and monks walk around you whilst you do the tourist thing. The main building is a sumptuous brick affair, very much like a Victorian inner city church except the arch is a predominant concept. The bricks are a paler red in colour and form a collection of arches around the top of the structure. In these arches are painted frescos of Bible scenes, which glistened in the autumn sun. Arches also form the base of the building, between which is whitewash. This is the Grand Church, going into a little alleyway produced The Old Church, which was built in 1690. This is in a small courtyard, with many flowers arranged around its edges. The Old Church is a white building but with a stunning porch, the roof of which is adorned in beautiful friezes.

My mind already drowning in architectural wonder, the next stop of my tour was the true highlight. Up a winding path with the gurgling sound of a waterfall to my right - and through a dense forest, tainted in the yellows and browns of the dying leaves - there was the Bavarian themed Peleş Castle lying in front of me. On my journey through the enchanted woodland (because it truly was) all of the wooden huts from which tourist tat was sold were closed because it was a Monday, leaving me alone in the tranquilty of this country scene. I crossed a stone bridge over the River Peleş and walked towards one of the most remarkable structures I have ever seen. The building is all turrets and a hotch-potch of rooms at many different angles. On the walls there were delightful paintings, with rich frescos adorning the inner courtyard. The clock tower is high and mighty, like something you would get out of a horror novel, whilst the gardens were adorned with a vast range of statues. The building itself was sadly closed but this didn't stop me walking around the exterior and soaking up the culture. And it was at this point that the sun came out.

Behind the castle and further up the road, there was Pelişor Palace. Built 20 years later than the castle, between 1899 and 1903, this is a smaller building in the German Renaissance style. However, its size does not make it any less beautiful than the castle, with the colourful roofing in particular capturing the heart. It was at this point that I decided to go to the bar next door and order a beer whilst soaking up this wondrous scene. Despite the cold, I sat outside and looked at the vista - the castle, meadow and in the distance the snow-capped peaks of the Carpintharian Mountains. No place have I been that is closer to heaven.

After my stop, I decided to walk up the mountain to try and catch the Telegondola. It said it was operatonal every day aside from Tuesdays so I started my stroll up to its midway point at 1400m. The views walking up the hill was wonderful and even a few dogs were interested in joining me for my walk. They were really sweet. Unfortunately, when I got to the gondola station, I was told that it wasn't operational until December. Bugger. So down the mountain I had to go again but at least I got to take in some more of the views, so I didn't particularly mind.

My final port of call on my tour of Sinaia was the local railway station. It was here in 1933 that prime minister Ion Duca was murdered by the Iron Guard after just three weeks in office. Sinaia was also the first town in Romania to get a railway station and to be granted a royal railway station too. Accordingly, there are two buildings, one for each station. The royal one is now the one functioning as a station whilst the old one has been converted into a model railway museum by an eccentric British man. Being a fan of model railways, I endeavoured to walk in and look at the exhibit. I got chatting to the man's granddaughter, a cynical lady from London who was initially raised in Hull. She told me a lot of interesting things about life in Romania - she has been living here for two years - and said she was bored of Sinaia as it had little to offer. I imagine she is probably right - as much as I love it here, I think living would get quite tedious after a while. Anyway, I had a quick look over the model railway exhibit, which was quintessentially British, after chatting to her before bidding her farewell.

When I got to the hotel, I tried the freezing cold swimming pool and the world's poorest sauna. The latter was very much like a cubicle, it was so small. Still, it was quite relaxing and I am glad I have had a day of exercise after my slovenly ways of late.

Afterwards, and feeling hungry, I decided to pop to one of the local restaurants where bear is a speciality. Bear hunting is strictly controlled in Romania and a handful of restaurants are allowed to serve it, where it is quite a delicacy. It came in strips and was served with gherkin and a pickled red thing. The taste is a bit strange. It's very similar to a very burnt, well done steak. It's a very rich, dark meat and extremely chewy. It also has a unique aftertaste. In all honesty, I doubt I will try it again but I am glad I gave it a go. The service in the restaurant was quite slow so I gave up on getting dessert and went to a local shop where they had crisps flavoured in a local cheese. They were nice but perhaps a little rich.

So this ends my two days in Sinaia, tomorrow I will be heading further north to do a spot more touring before I head back to the UK on Wednesday.