Brussels - The EU Quarter
Aug. 20th, 2018 12:01 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lupestripeWe had something of a lie-in last Saturday morning (11 August) as it had been a busy couple of days in Stockholm and Ghent. This meant we surfaced at around 11am, with us getting ready and leaving the hotel shortly before noon. Our first destination was the EU Quarter out to the east of the city, as this was the place that Wolfie and I particularly wanted to see. Navigating the underground was pretty straightforward, and it was especially convenient that there was a Metro stop literally around the corner from the hotel. This meant we were taken pretty swiftly there, just needing to change once on our way to Schuman, which was where the majority of the EU buildings were situated (indeed the Metro stop was named after Robert Schuman, one of the main promoters of European unity in the 1950s and 60s.
Upon emerging from the Metro, the imposing Berlaymont Building was right on top of us, lined with a huge EU banner extolling #TeamJuncker. This is the headquarters of the European Commission, with the building having been built in a rather brutalist style in 1967. Despite a number of revamps in the intervening years, it is still quite an ugly structure, albeit one which was fascinating such was its importance. Indeed it is often on news reports so it was good to see it in real life, alongside the graffiti mural on a building overlooking it declaring 'Europe Is The Future'. Around the perimeter of the building there were a number of boards detailing the history of the building, the Commission and this part of Brussels, which wiled away a good quarter of an hour under the beating sun. I was also amused to discover a British-style boozer just across from the building, undoubtedly a place inhabited by many of the journalists covering European affairs.
We hadn't had anything to eat and with the guidebook recommending a chip shop down the road called Maison Antoine - popular with celebrities and dignataries, with even German Chancellor Angela Merkel having stopped by - we thought it was too good an opportunity to miss. After all, frites are very much Belgium's national dish (indeed French Fries were given the name because British servicemen in WWI overheard their Belgian allies speaking French about this delicacy and it was assumed they were French) and with this being marked as one of THE top places to go for fries in the city, it was an opportunity that was too good to turn down. Alas, a lot of people thought the same, so the queues were rather long, but they were efficient at serving and we didn't have to wait too long. Twice cooked in beef fat, these were the crispiest, most delicious chips I have ever tasted. We got a small cone each, one with ketchup and one with mayonnaise as my French failed me somewhat as I failed to request both condiments on both sets of fries. Still, we double dipped as we had an enjoyable meander towards Leopold Park, around which many of the EU buildings are situated.
Leopold Park used to be Brussels Zoo until 1880, but none of that really remains. Instead, it's quite a pleasant oasis through which to stroll, with a charming lake at its centre. Inside its perimeter there is the History of Europe Museum, but we decided to skip this, having been to a number of similar places in the past. Behind the park there sits the main EU buildings and it was here where we were headed, past the Delors building, which reminded me of the fantastic Sun headline 'Up Yours Delors' back in something like 1992. The area is actually quite small, with the debating chamber known as the hemicycle taking up much of the space. Alas, this is only open Monday to Friday, so all we could do was wander around looking at the rather dated architecture. I did like the fact the flags of the 28 EU nations outside the building were arranged in alphabetical order by country name in that country's native language, meaning Spain was placed near Greece. Poigninatly, outside the hemicycle there is a fragment of the Berlin Wall, highlighting the importance of the EU in terms of European unity and integration. Of course, being a Remain-supporting Brit who's about to the stripped of his EU citizenship, our visit was tinged with sadness, and yet also with an affirmation that we are personally committed to the EU, even if our country isn't.
Most of the buildings in the EU area are named after pioneers of European integration, adding to the sense of history, and in the main walkway there is a huge mural depicting key events in Europe since the founding of the European Community back in 1951. There were many things we recognized, such as a nod to Solidarnosc on the main Esplanade bearing their name, and being here really did anchor me to the European project. As we walked around, we noticed that at Station Europe - a metro station that has a direct link to both Strasbourg and Luxembourg, the other seats of EU power, there was a small visitors centre, so we decided to pay them a visit. Getting in through the doors was something akin to the Crystal Maze but once we were inside, we were told that the Parliamentarium was open and definitely worth a visit. We were a little skeptical but as it was free and about 100m down the Esplanade, we thought we might as well pop in. We didn't regret it as it was a fascinating journey through the history of the European Union, starting with quotes from key figures from the first half of the twentieth century (including Winston Churchill) alongside the geopolitical issues of the time. I must admit I knew little of the actual founding of the EEC, beyond the fact it was related to collective control of coal and steel, so to follow the arguments and listen to the debates was really eye-opening. As the exhibition proceeded, detailing the key events from the EEC's founding in 1951 all the way up to the present day, key moments for the European Community were also noted, including the accession of many countries.
This history was definitely the highlight for me, but there were more interactive sessions too, including details of every single MEP in the European Parliament. Some even shared their aspirations although I did notice the computer that was to display Nigel Farage's video was 'out of order', which seemed quite appropriate. The seat breakdowns, by party and nationality, were illuminating as was the panoramic video detailing how an EU law is formed. This focused on a specific law and detailed some of the debate that was being had. Meanwhile, adjacent to this, you could pilot machines that looked a little like wheely bins over a map of Europe, with white blobs over certain cities resulting in a short video being played on the bin's screen which highlighted some of the important work that the EU was doing in that region. It was really great stuff to a pro-European like myself, albeit one tinged with great sadness. Brexit did get a passing mention, but without the substance being known, it's very difficult to build upon it so it was largely left untouched. Of course, the museum did present the EU in a very positive and uncritical light, but I did feel it was honest and thus it was a pleasure to spend a good two hours within the confines of the museum. Indeed, as we left, we even bought European gummy wristbands to show our allegiance.
As we left, we dipped into the temporary exhibit which was based around Nazi Propaganda in the popular media. This was incredibly sobering and there were a fair few parallels to today, not least with journalists following a line with which they did not necessarily agree. It was a very interesting expose into how a population can get subtely indoctrinated and then whipped into a belief, with passivity being used as main weapon of ideologes. Indeed, it was interesting to note how many Germans were against the Nazis and yet did not say or do anything at the time. Board games like 'Jews Out' and the Nuremberg Laws were particularly strong examples of just how pervasive the Nazi mentality became. I fear we could be going down a similar road right now.
After the exhibition and having been on our feet for a good few hours, we decided to call off at The Beer Factory over the road from the EU Parliament. This was a bar dedicated to the beers of the Brouwerij Haacht Brasserie and we were delighted to discover that you could purchase a metre of beer here. This was effectively a sample tray with seven beers on it, which was a great way to get immersed into the local brewing culture. The beers were quite varied and it was great just chilling, although conversation did turn towards the future and the uncertainty of it. I have made no secret of the fact my heart is in Europe and having walked around the European Parliament, that desire was only stronger. A few beers on just a cone of chips meant that emotion became quite strong, particularly as Wolfie didn't seem as committed to leaving the UK as I am. The reality is based in pragmatism - it may or may not happen - but right then my dream felt so far away and I do fear losing my partner because our priorities may be elsewhere. All of this came out to the fore in this bar, which made for an awkward session, but we did kiss and make up at the end, which was something at least. Brexit has really hurt me deeply and with the clock ticking ever louder, I know difficult decisions can no longer be postponed. I have no idea of the future but considering I hate uncertainty, I am so insecure right now it's unreal.
The centre of Brussels was only about a fifteen minute walk from where we had ended up, with us having plotted a deliberate direction from Schumann Metro back to where we had came. This was largely walking through residential areas, with us stopping off at a Carrafour to get a sandwich, with the beer having taken more of a toll than I had expected (well we had intended just to just get one small beer, not seven samples of varying strengths after all). I bought a chicken and bacon, only to be saddened to discover there were bits of cold egg in it for some reason. I am not sure what they were doing there as there was no real reason for their existence, but the sandwich was pleasant enough and it did improve my sobriety. Indeed, by the time we had gotten to the front gates of the Palais Royal, after wandering around its walled perimeter, I was completely fine and back in the saddle once more. There is a park directly opposite the Palais Royal and here they were setting up a stage for a forthcoming music festival. As a result, everything was a little messy, but at least we did get to see this dominating nineteenth century structure. Indeed, its design wouldn't look too out of place in Leeds in all honesty, despite it being the official residence of the Belgian royal family. They don't really reside here much these days, preferring Laeken, but considering this building came as something of a surprise as we were walking back from the EU Quarter, this only made it even more breathtaking. We had reached The Royal Quarter, which definitely had the grandest architecture in Brussels, and I'll detail more next time.
Upon emerging from the Metro, the imposing Berlaymont Building was right on top of us, lined with a huge EU banner extolling #TeamJuncker. This is the headquarters of the European Commission, with the building having been built in a rather brutalist style in 1967. Despite a number of revamps in the intervening years, it is still quite an ugly structure, albeit one which was fascinating such was its importance. Indeed it is often on news reports so it was good to see it in real life, alongside the graffiti mural on a building overlooking it declaring 'Europe Is The Future'. Around the perimeter of the building there were a number of boards detailing the history of the building, the Commission and this part of Brussels, which wiled away a good quarter of an hour under the beating sun. I was also amused to discover a British-style boozer just across from the building, undoubtedly a place inhabited by many of the journalists covering European affairs.
We hadn't had anything to eat and with the guidebook recommending a chip shop down the road called Maison Antoine - popular with celebrities and dignataries, with even German Chancellor Angela Merkel having stopped by - we thought it was too good an opportunity to miss. After all, frites are very much Belgium's national dish (indeed French Fries were given the name because British servicemen in WWI overheard their Belgian allies speaking French about this delicacy and it was assumed they were French) and with this being marked as one of THE top places to go for fries in the city, it was an opportunity that was too good to turn down. Alas, a lot of people thought the same, so the queues were rather long, but they were efficient at serving and we didn't have to wait too long. Twice cooked in beef fat, these were the crispiest, most delicious chips I have ever tasted. We got a small cone each, one with ketchup and one with mayonnaise as my French failed me somewhat as I failed to request both condiments on both sets of fries. Still, we double dipped as we had an enjoyable meander towards Leopold Park, around which many of the EU buildings are situated.
Leopold Park used to be Brussels Zoo until 1880, but none of that really remains. Instead, it's quite a pleasant oasis through which to stroll, with a charming lake at its centre. Inside its perimeter there is the History of Europe Museum, but we decided to skip this, having been to a number of similar places in the past. Behind the park there sits the main EU buildings and it was here where we were headed, past the Delors building, which reminded me of the fantastic Sun headline 'Up Yours Delors' back in something like 1992. The area is actually quite small, with the debating chamber known as the hemicycle taking up much of the space. Alas, this is only open Monday to Friday, so all we could do was wander around looking at the rather dated architecture. I did like the fact the flags of the 28 EU nations outside the building were arranged in alphabetical order by country name in that country's native language, meaning Spain was placed near Greece. Poigninatly, outside the hemicycle there is a fragment of the Berlin Wall, highlighting the importance of the EU in terms of European unity and integration. Of course, being a Remain-supporting Brit who's about to the stripped of his EU citizenship, our visit was tinged with sadness, and yet also with an affirmation that we are personally committed to the EU, even if our country isn't.
Most of the buildings in the EU area are named after pioneers of European integration, adding to the sense of history, and in the main walkway there is a huge mural depicting key events in Europe since the founding of the European Community back in 1951. There were many things we recognized, such as a nod to Solidarnosc on the main Esplanade bearing their name, and being here really did anchor me to the European project. As we walked around, we noticed that at Station Europe - a metro station that has a direct link to both Strasbourg and Luxembourg, the other seats of EU power, there was a small visitors centre, so we decided to pay them a visit. Getting in through the doors was something akin to the Crystal Maze but once we were inside, we were told that the Parliamentarium was open and definitely worth a visit. We were a little skeptical but as it was free and about 100m down the Esplanade, we thought we might as well pop in. We didn't regret it as it was a fascinating journey through the history of the European Union, starting with quotes from key figures from the first half of the twentieth century (including Winston Churchill) alongside the geopolitical issues of the time. I must admit I knew little of the actual founding of the EEC, beyond the fact it was related to collective control of coal and steel, so to follow the arguments and listen to the debates was really eye-opening. As the exhibition proceeded, detailing the key events from the EEC's founding in 1951 all the way up to the present day, key moments for the European Community were also noted, including the accession of many countries.
This history was definitely the highlight for me, but there were more interactive sessions too, including details of every single MEP in the European Parliament. Some even shared their aspirations although I did notice the computer that was to display Nigel Farage's video was 'out of order', which seemed quite appropriate. The seat breakdowns, by party and nationality, were illuminating as was the panoramic video detailing how an EU law is formed. This focused on a specific law and detailed some of the debate that was being had. Meanwhile, adjacent to this, you could pilot machines that looked a little like wheely bins over a map of Europe, with white blobs over certain cities resulting in a short video being played on the bin's screen which highlighted some of the important work that the EU was doing in that region. It was really great stuff to a pro-European like myself, albeit one tinged with great sadness. Brexit did get a passing mention, but without the substance being known, it's very difficult to build upon it so it was largely left untouched. Of course, the museum did present the EU in a very positive and uncritical light, but I did feel it was honest and thus it was a pleasure to spend a good two hours within the confines of the museum. Indeed, as we left, we even bought European gummy wristbands to show our allegiance.
As we left, we dipped into the temporary exhibit which was based around Nazi Propaganda in the popular media. This was incredibly sobering and there were a fair few parallels to today, not least with journalists following a line with which they did not necessarily agree. It was a very interesting expose into how a population can get subtely indoctrinated and then whipped into a belief, with passivity being used as main weapon of ideologes. Indeed, it was interesting to note how many Germans were against the Nazis and yet did not say or do anything at the time. Board games like 'Jews Out' and the Nuremberg Laws were particularly strong examples of just how pervasive the Nazi mentality became. I fear we could be going down a similar road right now.
After the exhibition and having been on our feet for a good few hours, we decided to call off at The Beer Factory over the road from the EU Parliament. This was a bar dedicated to the beers of the Brouwerij Haacht Brasserie and we were delighted to discover that you could purchase a metre of beer here. This was effectively a sample tray with seven beers on it, which was a great way to get immersed into the local brewing culture. The beers were quite varied and it was great just chilling, although conversation did turn towards the future and the uncertainty of it. I have made no secret of the fact my heart is in Europe and having walked around the European Parliament, that desire was only stronger. A few beers on just a cone of chips meant that emotion became quite strong, particularly as Wolfie didn't seem as committed to leaving the UK as I am. The reality is based in pragmatism - it may or may not happen - but right then my dream felt so far away and I do fear losing my partner because our priorities may be elsewhere. All of this came out to the fore in this bar, which made for an awkward session, but we did kiss and make up at the end, which was something at least. Brexit has really hurt me deeply and with the clock ticking ever louder, I know difficult decisions can no longer be postponed. I have no idea of the future but considering I hate uncertainty, I am so insecure right now it's unreal.
The centre of Brussels was only about a fifteen minute walk from where we had ended up, with us having plotted a deliberate direction from Schumann Metro back to where we had came. This was largely walking through residential areas, with us stopping off at a Carrafour to get a sandwich, with the beer having taken more of a toll than I had expected (well we had intended just to just get one small beer, not seven samples of varying strengths after all). I bought a chicken and bacon, only to be saddened to discover there were bits of cold egg in it for some reason. I am not sure what they were doing there as there was no real reason for their existence, but the sandwich was pleasant enough and it did improve my sobriety. Indeed, by the time we had gotten to the front gates of the Palais Royal, after wandering around its walled perimeter, I was completely fine and back in the saddle once more. There is a park directly opposite the Palais Royal and here they were setting up a stage for a forthcoming music festival. As a result, everything was a little messy, but at least we did get to see this dominating nineteenth century structure. Indeed, its design wouldn't look too out of place in Leeds in all honesty, despite it being the official residence of the Belgian royal family. They don't really reside here much these days, preferring Laeken, but considering this building came as something of a surprise as we were walking back from the EU Quarter, this only made it even more breathtaking. We had reached The Royal Quarter, which definitely had the grandest architecture in Brussels, and I'll detail more next time.
